Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Club Makakola: Malawian Paradise

Yesterday we loaded up our minibus with mountains of luggage. We all crowded on, and we were off! The workers at Annie’s Lodge were there to bid us farewell, as well as Annie herself. Tennyson and Benito were there with their smiling faces to say goodbye. They made us feel so welcome during our stay. We have some gems of friends at Annie’s Lodge.


As we drove out of Zomba, I tried to take in all of the scenery. I don’t want to forget the mountain, the hustle and bustle of the Zomba streets, the colors, the smells, the sounds of Zomba. As our bus drove by the road that goes to Malemia Primary, I did not look. I wanted to remember it just as it was the day before, with us walking on it with our children. I did scan the market area in the hopes that I might catch a glimpse of our boys.

Two and a half hours later, we arrived at our Malawian Paradise, Club Makakola. While I say it is a paradise, and it truly feels like it is (we're feeling really spoiled here), I think my Malawian paradise is back at Malemia.  But, I am enjoying the scenery and time here immensely. 

Club Mak is a resort and the road that leads into it is lined with beautiful magenta colored flowers. We were greeted with juice in little cups and then retired to our little “house” rooms. Patti had her own room, and so did I. Everything here is decorated with Malawian art. It is beautiful. Our beds are covered with layered mosquito netting, which just feels special for some reason. The lake is beautiful and the sand feels good on our feet. After crying all night long with little sleep, I decided to get a hot stone massage. It helped me to relax and I think being here is helping our entire group acclimate back into life as we know it back home. It was a day of respite from our work here and a day to anticipate our arrival back in the USA. We are all excited to see our loved ones.   I look forward to having cereal with milk, pizza, fresh fruit and salad, and salsa.  ....Strange the foods I am missing!  :)

Today we will visit Mua Mission where we will learn about Malawian dances and rituals, and we will see some beautiful art. Last night, we watched some Malawian dancers, and the experience at Mua Mission wll explain a lot of what we viewed last night.  We will then travel to Lilongwe for the night.

Patti and I talked about the bus ride yesterday and about the onset of our travels here. The bus was a bit quiet, we didn’t really know the group and everyone was just trying to take it all in and acclimate to the new culture. Now, the group is a family, very talkative, full of laughter and humor and full of heart. I am so proud to have traveled with each of them. Our girls from RU are strong, courageous, giving young women, as are the travelers from from VT and NC A&T. I know they will go on to do great and wonderful things in this world, and perhaps even in Malawi again. I am honored to have worked with this group and hope we will stay connected for years and years to come.  We have a bond that will last and grow as a result of this common experience, wild adventure and heart-filled journey.  We will board the plane tomorrow afternoon with many experiences we look forward to sharing with family and friends. It will be a good day, one day closer to being home.

Some of us have read the book The Boy Who Harnessed The Wind by William Kamkwamba as a part of our travel assignment here. It is a true story about a boy in Malawi who has accomplished great things. (Thank you Valerie for this wonderful gift that I will always treasure!). The book captures the Malawian culture and the typical life of a child here in a descriptive and touching way.  I close my blog with a quote from the book that is loved by many of us here, especially Patti and me, and it rings true for each of us as we bid farewell to the Warm Heart of Africa….

I went to sleep dreaming of Malawi,

and all the things made possible when your dreams are powered by your heart.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Goodbye, Goodbye, We Shall Meet Again

As I pack and prepare my things to depart from Zomba tomorrow morning, I do so with a heavy, heavy heart. Today was our last day at Malemia Primary School and I am not good with goodbyes. While everyone had cheerful smiles recalling the memories we have made together over the last few weeks, we also shared tears. I am so touched by the kindnesses shown to us by Esther Majawa, the Head Teacher at Malemia, all of the teachers, as well as the children. I will miss the children’s smiling faces greeting me each morning; I will miss the teachers’ warm hellos and I will miss the dirt road that leads into the village. I will miss the walk home in the afternoons and our little friends who accompany us for the journey each day, eager to know us, hold our hands and connect with us, to teach us Chichewa and to just play with us along the way. Most of all, I will miss Geraldi and Sanjo, and their little group of friends.


I will never my searching for Geraldi on the first day here this summer. Little did I know I would hear his voice calling my name from the tip top of a large tree in the middle of nowhere.

What a memory! As Caroline and I walked along the path this afternoon, I once again looked for my friend, hoping to have a chance to say goodbye. I recalled all of the days we played ball together with a ball made of plastic, the afternoons we danced and our conversations, part in English and part in Chichewa. I have been worried about Geraldi this year, because he does not seem to be clean and well groomed as he has in years past. He does not seem to go to school either. He just wanders around with his entourage of friends. I love his smile and his personality. He is very smart and cute as ever, too. Today, I was prepared with goodbye gifts. I wanted to give Geraldi and Sanjo jackets, because their clothes are so tattered and dirty. I know they must be cold. I also planned to give one of them my shoes. I had a spare pair to change into in my backpack. Along the walk today, we spotted them, just the two of them along the dirt path, and I decided to seize the moment. I gave them the jackets and their faces lit up with bright smiles. Then, Geraldi broke my heart, as he always does. He gave me some cassava, and said it was a gift for me.

Geraldi and Sanjo made a ball for me today, which I am bringing home and will treasure forever, and we walked together to our classroom at MIE. Today was a special day, our last day together. So, I invited the two boys into the classroom with me. I could tell they felt privileged to enter into the room with me. They knew it was okay, because I permitted it. We ate lunch together and I let them play with my camera. They also drew pictures on some notebook paper. Several other children joined us a bit later. It was a most wonderful afternoon, full of laughter and smiles. I just tried to soak it all in and savor every moment, for I knew at some point in the late afternoon, we would have to say goodbye.

Our group has been working on a song in Chichewa to sing for the teachers at our Farewell Dinner, which was to take place this evening. We practiced it this afternoon, and the children joined in with us. Hearing their voices sing in Chichewa, “We are thanking you, we have stayed well. Goodbye, Goodbye, We Shall Meet Again” brought tears to my eyes. I did not want to say goodbye.

Carly, one of our RU students, wanted to give away her shoes to one of the boys today, and I did as well. When the children left the room, we held Geraldi and Sanjo back. Carly and I placed our shoes on their precious little feet. They were so surprised and happy. It was a moment I’ll always remember. Other students ended up giving away their shoes as well. I gave away my second pair, too. Most of us returned home to Annie’s Lodge in our socks.

As the sun went down this evening, it was time. I wrapped Sanjo in my arms and hugged him as tightly as I could. I told him I’d be back and that he is loved. I then held my Geraldi close to my heart and told him I love him. He whispered, “You will come back.” “I will,” I said and hugged him one final time. When I entered into the hall for our dinner, I looked behind me through the window, only to see Geraldi and Sanjo waving and smiling at me. I will never forget today.

I learned this afternoon that the two of them are most likely orphans, living under the care of their 15 year old brother. My heart feels like it is broken into a million little pieces.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Choir of Angels

At school today, Sesso was busy installing the new bookshelves with his two helpers. They really add a lot of color and pizzazz to the rooms. It is so exciting to see them being put up.


We left school early for a special item on our itinerary today. We walked into the bush on a long dirt trail lined with houses and a fairly steady stream of “hellos” from nearby village children and their parents along the way. The dirt trail was frequented by bicycles, people carrying large bags of grain on their heads and learners in uniform walking home from school. When we neared the church, we heard a truly heavenly sound. It was the Malika Church Choir singing, “You are welcome”. Each member of the choir lined the steps of the church and greeted us with smiles and song. One member of the choir hugged each of us and said, “I love you” as we walked through the door. If churches in the USA greeted newcomers with such genuine smiles and gladness, the pews would be filled each time the doors are opened.

The choir consisted of men, women, girls and boys, each fully engaged in songs of praise. A director stood at the front and he did an excellent job in connecting with each of us during the choir performance. One little boy climbed upon the lap of one of our students, Lauren. It was so sweet. He stayed with her the entire time. The choir was accompanied by a group of boys and young men who played the drums. They had prepared 8 songs for us. One was “We are walking in the light of God”, which is a personal favorite. They sang songs about God’s forgiveness, their desire to grow closer to Him, and about His character. If the song praises of the angels and saints in heaven are only nearly as lovely as the singing we heard today, I can’t wait to hear it!

A little group of small children settled themselves near the doorway of the church during the entire performance. They sang and watched and a few even danced. It was precious to see them enjoying it all as much as we did. At one point, I looked behind me on the seats, and my little friend Geraldi and his buddies has snuck in. He looked at me and said, “shhhh” and gave me a wink. They had followed us there, all the way from the school! I’m going to miss that little fellow and his antics when we leave next week.

Following the performance, the leader of the church, Luke, thanked us for taking the time to come and visit with them. He said it was a blessing to have us there (however, I think it was US who were the blessed ones today). They then presented our group with gifts, which was unexpected. They presented us bags of rice, stalks of sugar cane, cassava, bananas and sweet potatoes. It was completely humbled. They had given us TRUE gifts -- gifts of the heart – the very best they had to offer. I can’t think about it without crying. I will never forget my afternoon with the Choir of Angels at Malika Church.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

A Good Day

Today was a great day on many different levels. First, we went to school and finished painting all of the bookshelves. The carpenter, Sesso, was there. He helped us mix the paint and showed us exactly how he wanted us to use the brushes to paint the shelves. He is such a nice man, and I enjoyed having the time to talk with him in more detail today. The shelves are now complete and Sesso will start hanging them in the classrooms tomorrow. I can’t wait to see the teachers’ and children’s faces!


Also today, Annie Fletcher, spoke with our Girls’ Group in association with our Malawi Chibale Project. Annie is a successful business woman here in Malawi (the owner of Annie’s Lodge), as well as a former member of Malawian Parliament. The girls and their mothers gathered to hear Annie give a most inspirational message. She shared about how she grew up poor, with only two dresses, one for church and one for school. She emphasized the importance of education and the importance of prayer and how a combination of the two can lift girls up in this country. She talked about how God has a plan for each one of them and how we don’t know who He will choose to do great things. She stressed the importance of studying, completing primary and secondary school, as well as college. Annie also told the girls that once they are successful, they must not forget their mothers and their families. Annie shared how much she loves her mother and cares for her now that she is older. She helps her bathe, get dressed, and go out in a loving, respectful way. She told the girls they need to remember to do the same for their mothers. She ended by telling the girls with education, they can choose their profession, who they marry, when they marry, and if/when they have children. It was an inspirational speech for ALL women in the room, not just the Malawians. Annie Fletcher is an extraordinary woman and I am blessed to call her my friend.

Following the girls’ meeting, we went to the Malawi Institute of Education (MIE) for our Chibale Project organizational meeting. Faculty and students from all three of our universities, as well as the head teacher and other classroom teachers from Malemia Primary gathered to create a mission statement and to establish short term and long term goals for the Chibale Project. At the end of the meeting, we stood in a circle, held hands, and shared our dreams and wishes for Chibale. It was a wonderful, idea-generating, productive meeting. Patti Talbot, my friend and colleague, did an outstanding job in facilitating the meeting.

Next, we went to what we refer to as “The Wall.” The Wall is in downtown Zomba, and it is where the local vendors display and sell their many wares. It is like an open-air market of wooden crafts, beaded jewelry and batik art. The vendors bargain and barter with us for “good prices”. The bartering is almost a game-like banter between vendor and customer. I thoroughly enjoy it, and I think the students do as well. We’re always on a quest to make a good deal.

Alex is the vendor I have done business with for years. He is calm, cool and collected. He isn’t aggressive, which I like. Usually, I just kick back and visit with him the whole time I’m here. I tell him the goods I wish to purchase, he makes them and then has them ready for me on the last day. We have a system, and I can avoid all of the banter. I still haggle with him a bit, but he does give me good prices.

I have been looking for Alex at The Wall since we arrived and never finding him there, assumed he had moved on. A few nights ago, a fellow came to Annie’s Lodge and Patti and I ended up having dinner with him. He told us he is the manager of all the vendors. I asked about Alex and he told me Alex indeed is still in Zomba. I must have just been missing him due to the times I am down there. Today, when we stopped in town, Alex walked to the bus. It was so good to see him. We walked to the Wall together and looked at all his wooden arts. I told him what I’m in business for, and he is going to have it all ready for me on Sunday….just like old times! We caught up on our families, and I left feeling good to have connected with an old friend.

Next, I went to Tasty Bites with a few of the students. We enjoyed yummy samoosas and chocolate cake. Life doesn’t get any better than that here in Malawi.  When we got back to Annie’s Lodge, Danielle and Stephanie taught me how to play the game of Bawo (pronounced like to take a bow). Bow is a mancala game that is played with marbles and seeds on a long wooden board with holes. It requires a lot of strategy and quick thinking. I thoroughly enjoyed it. My first game lasted a long, long time. Danielle coached me on the rules, and I played Stephanie, who is the current champion in our group. I lost, but Danielle thinks I have great promise. Now I’m obsessed and already trying to figure out when we can play again!

Family and friends....get ready! I’m going to want to play this fun game with you when I get home!

Friday, July 2, 2010

A New Ball

School was great today. It was good to be back. Innocent (one of the teachers) gave another drumming lesson. He is such a good teacher. Stephanie, in our group, is the best drummer in our group. I think I need some remedial help. We then helped to feed the children for the feeding program. We had hoped to use primer on the bookshelves today, but we needed more materials (thinner). So, we will begin that project on Monday.


After school, our little troop of boys stopped to talk and play. This is such a special time of the day for me. It helps me to connect with some of the children on a more personal level. They try to teach us Chichewa and we teach them English. It is a really nice exchange. They are so funny. They dance, play games and just ask us questions and goof off with us. Today we did the limbo with them, did some break dancing (they’re really good!) and then I asked if they had a ball. The children in Malawi make balls out of plastic bags. They are good balls, made exclusively of plastic bags, and I can’t figure out how they do it. One kid had a bag, and I gave him one. Other kids immediately started coming up and adding more bags to the collection. Next thing I knew, they were building a small fire right off the roadside. They put one bag inside another, scrunched it up into a ball, and then held it over the fire. They let the plastic get a little hot; then they’d take it off the fire and shape it with their hands. Then, they added another layer, and another, shaping with the fire after each layer. Before I knew it, we had a great ball to play with. It was amazing!!! I am going to take more plastic bags on Monday and get them to make one for me to bring home.

After playing with the ball for a while, we played duck duck goose with them, danced some more, and just talked some more. It broke my heart, because before we got on the bus to come back home, Geraldi gave the ball to us and said, “Take it back to America with you and play.” Little Geraldi, with no shoes, torn clothes wanted us to have his new ball.

Mvuu Camp

When I was a little girl, I had a little safari set that I enjoyed playing with quite a bit. It had a tent, a grass fence, a jeep, and many animals, including elephants and zebra. I loved it so much. Never in my wildest dreams would I have ever imagined that I would actually get to experience an African safari for myself. This was my fourth visit to Mvuu Camp and I never tire of it. I could ride on the jeep or river and/or sit on the front porch of my tent chalet there for days and be entertained by the many sights, sounds and smells of nature.


Mvuu Camp is one of my most favorite parts of our visit to Malawi. Mvuu is the Chichewa word for hippo, and our experience at the camp encompasses a river safari, a land safari and a night/land safari, as well as a morning walk that begins at 5:30am. I view this outing as my opportunity to get to know the animal and plant life in this land that is so near and dear to my heart.

Hippos were scattered about along all of the riverbanks. They make paths to the land, which are called hippo highways. We had the opportunity to see a week-old baby hippo and its mother. Mothers are very protective and she made great efforts to shield her little one from our view. We also saw several crocodiles along the river, as well as storks, egrets, heron and eagles.

We saw a few elephants. One elephant was about three years old and its leg had been caught on a snare. It had difficulty walking and was all alone. I can’t stop thinking about it. We also saw a dead elephant. The guide said it could not keep up with its group and had settled down on the ground to die alone. …Another sad elephant sighting. On a positive note, the best treat of all was seeing zebras. It is rare to see them, the group was especially happy for this opportunity! We saw multitudes of impalas and waterbucks. We also saw kudu and heart beasts. A mongoose crossed our path, as well as a genet. There is a black rhino preserve at Mvuu, and we looked for them, but did not see any. Rhinos are very shy animals. It was fun to look.

On the night safari, the elephant sightings picked up, and my group had a riveting experience. At one point, we saw one elephant to the left of us, behind the jeep. The driver slowed down and the guide with the spotlight carefully scanned the landscape. We then saw other elephants in front of us, to the right. The guides revved the engine of the jeep in an effort to flush out all of them so we’d know where they were. A few ran by, with finally a baby elephant running as well. The one behind us was still behind us, so we could not back up. We had to go forward. Just as the baby elephant passed and we started to drive, we heard the trumpet of another elephant. It was dark; we could not see it, but it sounded close. I quickly hid my eyes, ducked and hoped for the best. We made it and returned to camp thrilled.

At night we retired to our chalets and were entertained by a symphony of sounds, with hippo grunting in the background every now and then. We woke early to take a 5:30am walk. We saw warthogs, which are my absolute favorite. We learned about the digestive systems of elephants and impalas. We picked wild basil and learned how it will help a head cold, and it also helps for sleeping well at night. It may also be burned as a mosquito repellent. We learned about the yellow fever tree, the origin of its name and how it contains a chemical that is helpful in the treatment of malaria. We also picked wild jasmine, which smelled so sweet.

The food at Mvuu Camp is absolutely scrumptious. For lunch they served stew, carrot salad and dessert – fruit crumble. It was heavenly! For dinner, we had cauliflower soup, Portuguese chicken, vegetables (the sweetest cooked carrots I’ve ever had) and lemon pie. Breakfast consisted of cheese omelets, freshly made butter, bran muffins, and fruit. We can eat the fruit at Mvuu and it was delicious. I loved every meal. The staff at Mvuu is top notch, very friendly, knowledgeable and professional. It was a wonderful two days!